Published Articles
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Sweet Georgia on My Mind
Way down among the piney woods in southernmost Georgia, there’s a little town called Thomasville that, thanks to two decades of dedication from a particular cheesemaking family, the Wehners, has been put squarely on the map.
Italian-American Classic, L.A. Twist
Star L.A. chef Nancy Silverton’s Eggplant Parmigiana with Fonduta Cream recipe, a bite-sized appetizer that’s clever modern take on a long-time favorite inspired by a lunch she prepared for California Cuisine pioneer Jeremiah Tower in the early 2000s at her home in Umbria.
Discovering Dairyland
Welcome to Wisconsin where, quite simply, it’s all about cheese. Those requiring proof need merely pull over at just about any country convenience store where, alongside the usual snacks, they’ll find some of the state’s finest artisan cheeses for sale.
Bark-Wrapped Treats: Rare & Delicious
Of all the categories of fine cheese, the bark-wrapped makes a strong case for being the most captivating. Like popping open a chilled bottle of vintage Champagne, serving a whole bark-wrapped cheese is guaranteed to ramp up the festivities at any occasion.
Tasting Plate: An Italian All-Star Lineup
Down through the eons, Italian cheesemakers have shown a remarkable knack for sticking with tradition while simultaneously indulging their penchant for elaboration. Here’s a tour around the boot by way of eight of the country’s finest.
Zuppa Valdostana: Fontina "Soup"
This is the story of a soup that’s not really a soup at all, but rather one of Italy’s most satisfying and easy-to-prepare comfort foods. It hails from the Val d'Aosta, which is home to some of the country’s best cheesemaking landscapes. And it revolves around the pride of local cheeses, Fontina.
Tarte Flambée: Pride of Alsace
In Alsace, it’s hard to avoid tarte flambée—and who would want to? It’s a ubiquitous national dish they call flammekueche (“flame cake”). I asked Gabriel Kreuther, America’s preeminent Alsatian chef, and he was kind enough to share his family’s recipe, which is featured as a bar snack at his eponymous New York restaurant.
The Cheesemongers' Champion
Adam Moskowitz takes his job selling cheese seriously, but not too seriously: This is glaringly evident when he’s emceeing the Cheesemonger Invitational (CMI), a convivial contest he created in the style of an underground rave, wearing his famous Mr. Moo costume.
East Hampton Star
Clamfest
June 2018
The spirit of Pierre Franey, one of America’s first and foremost French chefs, of 60-Minute Gourmet fame, is alive and well in his family’s clamfests (with recipe).
Plum Crazy
August 2018
A glance into the whys and wherefores of beach plums, the Holy Grail of wild tree fruit, and how to capture some of their elusive mystique (with recipes).
Last Man Standing (Zack Zacharias)
June 2019
Discovering your backyard neighbor, who’s a living monument to a bygone era in the 20th century art world, is one of the distinctive treats of living in The Springs.
Smoke on the Water
June 2019
Bluefish is a common and still much-maligned denizen of our East Coast waters. Here are some suggestions for how to cook it for maximum enjoyment, including my recipe for smoked bluefish paté.
Paul Annacone Interview
June 2017
Other than Carl Yastrzemski, Sag Harbor native and tennis ace Paul Annacone is perhaps the most famous athlete to emerge from the Hamptons. After a high-ranked pro career, he turned to coaching, guiding Pete Sampras and Roger Federer at the height of their powers.
Ryan Pilla Interview
August 2017
Pilla, aka The Car Doctor, who takes care of upscale Hamptonites’ sports cars and much more at his “infirmary” on Scuttle Hole Road in Water Mill, is also an accomplished racer who established a notable land-speed record.
Bye Bye Bambi
July 2018
My wife Cora is a dedicated gardener who spent most of her adult life cultivating flowers, vegetables and even fruit in the California sunshine. When we bought a summer house in Long Island, she encountered a familiar foe—hungry deer. Her learning curve in protecting her plants from these hooved marauders inspired this article.
Let’s Get Eel
August 2019
Gigging for eels in a secret cove spot somewhere in Sag Harbor as a guest of the distinguished New York chef Kerry Heffernan, who likes to play weekend bayman (with recipe).
The Big Chill
Holiday 2017
Gurney’s Inn & Resort, Montauk’s long-time go-to accommodation, presided over for many years by the Monte family, has undergone a major renovation and upgrade and is fully geared up for dining and entertainment throughout the year.
Ina Garten Interview
Holiday 2018
When she reinvented her career at age 30, Ina Garten didn’t realize it at the time she had initiated one of America’s most successful recipe brands with her East Hampton shop and catering business, The Barefoot Contessa. Launching her 11th book, she shares a couple signature recipes.
Holiday 2019
Joining food-science writer and cookbook author Eugenia Bone for her annual fall canning ritual—including recipes for preserving tuna and tomatoes for year-round good eating.
Don Lemon Interview
August 2017
Among television's most prominent talking heads, CNN’s anchor Don Lemon is known for his professionalism, sincerity and endearing personality; he’s found a happy second home in Sag Harbor, where he loves to chill out on weekends and holidays year round.
Wild Turkeys
Holiday 2018
Magnificent, elusive and omnipresent along the back roads (and in the backyards) of the East End, wild turkeys are a pest to some, a delight to others. An appreciation of these feisty fowl—and a recipe for cooking them.
Other
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